Backpacking in Fiji, Chapter 4

Roosters, A Sleeping Chief, And A Wild Preacher Man

4:05 in the ******* morning.

This was my first thought Sunday morning in Nasivicoso. Many creatures in the world--people, most birds--are diurnal. This term refers to those living things that are active during the day. Movies and books have led me to believe that roosters were one of these diurnal birds. I have been lied to by movies and books. Roosters are awake, and very vocal, well before the sun comes up. I remembered the rooster curry I had earlier in the summer...
Once I decided that it was a sane time to be awake, I left The Chief's house and went to the Rustic Pathways bure for breakfast. Joining my fellow travelers, we dined on crackers and crepes with peanut butter and jelly. None of them looked particularly chipper that morning. Apparently the roosters did not discriminate when it came to loitering beneath windows.

I finished eating and returned to The Chief's house to get dressed for church. Once again, I wrapped a dress sulu around my waist and put on a button-down shirt, albeit less colorful than my shirt in Malakati. I also had a tie, but before I could tie it myself, The Chief intervened. I can now say with all honesty that a village chief tied my tie for me. It was almost like a grandfather putting a tie on his grandchild. I felt special.

This worship experience was not as inspiring nor as goosebump inducing as the one I had in Malakati, but it was nice nonetheless. Before entering, I followed The Chief to a hollowed out log, something present in all Fijian villages. It is used just like a bell to signal happenings, such as the start of a church service or a village meeting. I, along with the rest of the males from my party, entered through a back door and joined the elders. The Chief sat alone in a chair as opposed to the benches that we sat on. Also, he wore sunglasses the entire time. I could not see his eyes, but I have no doubts that he slept the majority of the service.

One thing that surprised me was the identity of the assistant preacher: Josese. This man, the one who climbed cliffs, jumped off waterfalls, and ran naked into the river without hesitation in front of two complete strangers, was the assistant preacher. Apparently, there were multiple sides to Josese. I decided that he was a good guy. I did not understand anything said during the service except for our brief welcome in english, but I'm sure it was very nice, complete with beautiful readings and an inspiring sermon.